The intrepid, and budget-minded, rifle grenade launcher can benefit from reloading his own blank ammunition. The process involves the same components used in reloading cartridges, minus the projectiles (bullets).
However, one piece of new equipment is likely necessary—a blank crimp die/set. Nevertheless, hand loaded blank ammunition is far more economical than commercial blank rounds. The break-even point on the purchase of new equipment is around 300-350 loaded rounds.

The total cost of hand loaded blanks after that point is about a quarter to a third of the price of commercial blanks. A .223 blank will cost about 15 cents each, rather than 60+ cents each. A .30-06 blank will cost about 20 cents each, rather than 80+ cents each.
Load data for making rifle launcher blanks is difficult to find. Through dissection of commercial rifle blanks, research, experienced extrapolation, and experimentation, I have developed an approach that works for my needs.
I’m happy to share my load information with you below, but this is only a rough starting point, and you should do your own load development. As with any reloading experience, use care, common sense, and a conservative approach to develop a safe, effective load, to meet your needs.
For .223 blanks used in a can cannon style launcher for the AR-15, I use about 6-9 grains of fast-burning pistol/shotgun powder to send a tennis ball around 70-100 yards, and a golf ball about double the distance. Powders like 700x and Titegroup fit the bill.
I haven’t launched a full can of liquid from the can cannon, but if I did, I would start my testing at 8 grains of powder, and go up from there. I did launch a can about a quarter full with water, and the light powder charge sent it exactly 100 yards.
The same powders/type apply for preparing .308 and .30-06 rifle launcher blank hand loads, such as those used for the spigot style launcher for the M1 Garand. To launch rubber dummy grenades (about 12 oz) with .308 about 70-100 yards, I use about 12-15 grains of powder. For .30-06, I use about 13-16 grains of powder.
You might be wondering if the cost of the blank crimp die/set is necessary. I tried firing blanks that were not crimped, and some that were lightly sealed with tissue paper glued to the rim. All that happened was the primer went off, but the powder didn’t ignite. It appears that some obstruction of the case mouth is required for the proper ignition of the powder. You might be able to use some sort of combustible plug, but I opted for crimping the metallic case. That variable made all the difference, and I am certain that the blanks send no large solids into the gas system or launcher on the rifle.
That’s all there is to it. Happy launching!!
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